In short: for most travellers the right answer is both — enter Spiti via Shimla and Kinnaur, and leave via Manali and Kunzum La. The Shimla route is longer (about 410 km to Kaza, usually three days) but climbs gradually and stays open most of the year. The Manali route is shorter (about 182 km to Kaza through the Atal Tunnel, one 7 to 10 hour day) but jumps from roughly 2,050 m to 4,551 m at Kunzum La in a single day, and it only exists while Kunzum is open — roughly late May or June to mid-October. Once Kunzum closes, Spiti is a Shimla-side trip in both directions.
Quick answer
- First time in Spiti, or travelling with children or older parents: go in via Shimla–Kinnaur, out via Manali (June to mid-October) — or Shimla both ways.
- Only 5 or 6 days, already acclimatised, travelling June to September: Manali in and out works, with Chandratal on the way.
- From mid-October to May: Shimla–Kinnaur is the only road in. Do not plan around Kunzum La.
Updated 8 October 2026 by the Suzu Travels operations team, Himachal Pradesh.
Shimla route vs Manali route to Spiti: side-by-side comparison
The two roads into Spiti are not alternatives in the way two highways are. They differ in season, altitude profile, fuel, stays and what you can see on the way. The table below compares the Shimla–Kinnaur route (NH-5 to Khab, then NH-505 to Kaza) with the Manali–Kunzum La route (Atal Tunnel, Gramphu, Batal, Kunzum La, Losar, Kaza).
| Factor | Via Shimla and Kinnaur | Via Manali and Kunzum La |
|---|---|---|
| Distance to Kaza | About 410 km from Shimla | About 182 km from Manali via the Atal Tunnel (about 202 km over Rohtang) |
| Distance from Delhi to Kaza | About 730 km | About 710 km (Delhi–Manali roughly 530 km, then 182 km) |
| Realistic days to reach Kaza | 3 days from Shimla (overnights usually Kalpa or Reckong Peo, then Nako or Tabo) | 1 long day (7–10 hours) from Manali |
| Highest point on the road | No high pass; the road tops out around Nako (about 3,660 m) and Kaza (about 3,650 m) | Kunzum La, 4,551 m |
| Altitude gain | Gradual: Shimla about 2,200 m → Kalpa about 2,960 m → Nako about 3,660 m | Abrupt: Manali about 2,050 m → Kunzum La 4,551 m on the same day |
| When the road is open | Most of the year; short closures after landslides or heavy snow (Kaza–Tabo can shut for a few days in winter) | Roughly late May or June to mid-October or early November. Blocked from early November 2025; reopened 20 May 2026 |
| Road surface | Mostly tarmac with landslide zones (Nigulsari, Malling Nala, Pooh–Kaurik stretch under repair in 2026) | Broken and unpaved between Gramphu and Losar, with stream crossings that run high in the afternoon |
| Fuel | Pumps at Narkanda, Tapri and Reckong Peo; Kaza has the only pump in Spiti | No pump between Manali and Kaza |
| Places to stay on the way | Plenty: Sarahan, Sangla, Kalpa, Nako, Tabo | No permanent stay between Gramphu and Losar; seasonal dhabas at Batal and Chhatru close by mid-October |
| Sights on the route | Sutlej gorge, Kalpa, Nako lake, Giu, Tabo Monastery (founded 996 CE) | Chandra valley, Chandratal (turn-off near Batal, open roughly mid-June to early October), Kunzum La |
| Public bus | HRTC Shimla–Reckong Peo and Reckong Peo–Kaza | HRTC Manali–Kaza, roughly June to mid-October only |
| Permits | Foreign nationals need an Inner Line Permit for the Jangi–Sumdo stretch; Indians register with photo ID at Sumdo | No Rohtang permit needed via the Atal Tunnel; ILP only if the trip continues down through Sumdo and Jangi |
| Best for | First-timers, families, older travellers, any trip after mid-October | Short summer trips, travellers already acclimatised (for example, coming from Ladakh), Chandratal |
Distances and altitudes are drawn from the NH-505 route chart and published road surveys; road status changes every season, so treat the open/close window as a pattern, not a promise. Our Rohtang, Atal Tunnel and Kunzum La road status page tracks the actual dates.
Why is it safer to enter Spiti from the Shimla side?
Altitude is the reason. Acute mountain sickness is driven by how fast you gain height, not by how high you end up. The Shimla–Kinnaur route spreads the climb across three days: Shimla sits at about 2,200 m, Kalpa at about 2,960 m and Nako at about 3,660 m, so by the time a traveller reaches Kaza (about 3,650 m) the body has had two nights to adjust.
The Manali route does the opposite. A traveller who slept in Manali at about 2,050 m crosses Kunzum La at 4,551 m the same afternoon and sleeps in Kaza that night. Headaches, nausea and poor sleep on the first Spiti night are common on this route, and they are worse for children, older travellers and anyone who flew into the mountains the day before. A night in Manali before starting helps, but it does not replace the gradual climb.
The Shimla route also has more fallback options. Towns, hospitals, fuel and hotels are spread along the Sutlej valley, so a vehicle problem or a landslide hold-up costs hours rather than a night in the cold.
When does the Manali route to Spiti make sense?
The Manali–Kunzum La route is the right choice in a narrow set of cases:
- The trip is short. With five or six days, three days of driving from Shimla leaves too little time in Spiti. Manali in and out gives three to four days in the valley.
- The traveller is already acclimatised. Groups coming from Ladakh or Lahaul have already spent nights above 3,000 m, so the jump over Kunzum La matters far less.
- Chandratal is a priority. Chandratal lies off the Manali side near Batal and is only reachable while Kunzum La is open — roughly mid-June to early October.
- It is the exit leg of a circuit. Leaving Spiti via Kunzum La after four or five nights in the valley carries almost none of the altitude risk of entering that way.
When should you not take the Manali route to Spiti?
The Manali–Kaza road is a poor plan in these situations, and an honest operator will say so:
- From mid-October onwards. Kunzum La is among the first passes to take snow. The HRTC Manali–Kaza bus is normally withdrawn between the second and third week of October, the Batal and Chhatru dhabas shut, and a single snowfall can close the road for days. In recent years the pass has closed anywhere between mid-October and early November.
- With a low-clearance car and no experience of stream crossings. The Gramphu–Batal–Losar stretch is unpaved, and its nallas carry the most water in the afternoon as snow melts. Cross early in the day.
- Without spare fuel. There is no petrol pump between Manali and Kaza, a distance of about 182 km on slow roads.
- With anyone who has a heart or lung condition, or who is unwell at altitude. Choose the Shimla side, and speak to a doctor before any Spiti trip.
What is the best Spiti route plan for a 7 to 9 day trip?
Between June and mid-October, the circuit that balances safety and sightseeing is Shimla → Kinnaur → Spiti → Manali. A typical version:
- Day 1: Delhi or Chandigarh to Shimla or Narkanda (our Delhi to Shimla taxi page has one-way fares for this leg).
- Day 2: Narkanda to Kalpa or Sangla, along the Sutlej (fuel at Narkanda).
- Day 3: Kalpa to Nako or Tabo, via the Khab confluence where NH-505 begins.
- Day 4: Tabo to Kaza via Dhankar, with an optional Pin Valley detour.
- Days 5–6: Kaza base: Key Monastery, Kibber, Langza, Hikkim.
- Day 7: Kaza to Chandratal or Manali over Kunzum La, starting early.
- Days 8–9: Manali, then the drive home; keep one buffer day for road closures.
From mid-October to May, reverse the second half: return from Kaza the way you came, through Tabo, Kinnaur and Shimla. Our guide to winter Spiti for 2026-27 covers that version in detail, and the Delhi to Spiti road trip guide covers the self-drive logistics.
What permits do you need for Spiti on each route?
- Indian nationals: no Inner Line Permit. Carry a government photo ID; vehicles and passengers are registered at the Sumdo checkpost on the Kinnaur side. Lahaul-Spiti also uses the free e-Aagman online registration.
- Foreign nationals: an Inner Line Permit is required for the stretch between Jangi and Sumdo, which only the Shimla–Kinnaur route crosses. It is issued in person by the DM, SDM or ADC offices (Reckong Peo and Kaza are the usual ones), and groups of two or more are sponsored by a registered travel agency. A trip that enters and leaves Spiti via Manali does not cross that stretch.
- Atal Tunnel and Rohtang: the Atal Tunnel (9.02 km) needs no Rohtang permit. A permit is only needed to drive over Rohtang Pass itself.
- Out-of-state vehicles: Himachal entry tax at the state barriers, plus the Manali green tax for non-HP vehicles entering Manali. See our Himachal entry tax and permits guide for 2026.
Spiti route FAQ
Which is better for Spiti Valley, the Shimla route or the Manali route?
For most travellers the best plan uses both: enter Spiti via Shimla and Kinnaur, which gains altitude gradually over three days, and leave via Manali and Kunzum La while the pass is open, roughly late May or June to mid-October. Outside that window the Shimla route is the only road in and out.
How far is Kaza from Shimla and from Manali?
Kaza is about 410 km from Shimla via Kinnaur, usually driven over three days. Kaza is about 182 km from Manali via the Atal Tunnel and Kunzum La, driven in one day of 7 to 10 hours. From Delhi both routes total roughly 710 to 730 km.
Is the Manali to Kaza road open in October?
The Manali to Kaza road over Kunzum La is often open in early October but becomes unreliable from mid-October. The HRTC Manali to Kaza bus is normally withdrawn in the second or third week of October and the Batal dhabas close. Check the live road status before relying on it.
Why do people get altitude sickness on the Manali route to Spiti?
The Manali route climbs from about 2,050 m in Manali to 4,551 m at Kunzum La on the same day, then sleeps at Kaza at about 3,650 m. The Shimla route spreads the climb over three days via Kalpa and Nako, giving the body time to adjust.
Do Indian tourists need a permit for Spiti Valley?
Indian tourists do not need an Inner Line Permit for Spiti. They carry a government photo ID and register at the Sumdo checkpost. Foreign nationals need an Inner Line Permit for the Jangi to Sumdo stretch on the Kinnaur side. The Atal Tunnel needs no Rohtang permit.
Is there a petrol pump between Manali and Kaza?
No. There is no petrol pump on the roughly 182 km between Manali and Kaza, and the pump at Kaza is the only one inside Spiti. On the Shimla route, fuel is available at Narkanda, Tapri and Reckong Peo.
Spiti packages on each route
Two fixed itineraries show the two approaches: the Kinnaur–Kaza circuit with Chandratal (in via Shimla, out via Manali) and the Spiti tour from Manali for short summer trips. For a Kinnaur-only trip that stops short of Spiti, see the Kinnaur tour from Shimla. Travel agents booking groups can read how we handle ground operations on the Spiti DMC page.
Suzu Travels is a Himachal Pradesh-based destination management company, registered as a travel agent with the Department of Tourism & Civil Aviation, Government of Himachal Pradesh (Reg. No. DTO-MND-11-243/2022), and GST-registered — see our registration certificates. Tell us your dates, group size and ages, and we will tell you which route fits and send a costed day-by-day plan: request a Spiti itinerary and quote or call +91 70874 88961.
Sources: NH-505 route chart (Khab–Kaza–Gramphu); Himachal road status reports for Kunzum La 2020–2026; HRTC seasonal schedules; Kinnaur district administration on Inner Line Permits. Altitudes are rounded and vary slightly between surveys.
